Nanjing Cuisine

Quacking Cuisine: Nanjing's gastronomy is a divine duckfest

Daniel Allen

Nanjing Salted Duck, China — Salted Duck

Peking duck, that most famous of Chinese dishes, is well known the world over. What far fewer people realise is that China's capital of duck cuisine is not Beijing at all, but a city situated over 1,000 kilometres further south. Welcome to Nanjing.

Nanjing was once the imperial capital of China. With emperors holding duck in high culinary esteem, the popularity of these feathered fowl soon spread from the royal courts to the man on the street. Today the city's cornucopia of duck dishes is still said to reflect the more refined palette of Chinese southerners.

Nanjing Cuisine, China — Xiaolongxia (crayfish), served up in a hot and spicy chili sauce

If the rich, saucy and altogether theatrical Peking duck typifies northern China's heavy gastronomy, then Nanjing's duck dishes are light and piquant, with local chefs incorporating it into everything from soups, snacks and pastries to hors d'oeuvres, main courses and dim sum. As the local Nanjing saying goes: "Without duck, there is no feast."

The most famous duck dish in Nanjing is undoubtedly yanshuiya - or salted duck. This is marinated in a special brine, and generally served cold, with the finest examples boasting pale skin, pink meat and a delicate, mildly spiced flavour.

Currently nipping at the heels of duck in the Nanjing culinary stakes is xiaolongxia (crayfish), which is usually served up in a hot and spicy chili sauce. Possibly not imperial fare, but a great way to warm up on a springtime evening.