Beijing Culture: Beijing Christmas

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Dreaming of a Red Christmas: Yuletide celebrations in the Chinese capital

Daniel Allen

Once an excuse for a few expats to drink overpriced gluwein and salivate over thoughts of cranberry sauce, the whole Christmas phenomenon is now big business in Beijing . While some may deplore the sheer commerciality of the whole thing, there's no denying that come December 25 th the air of revelry and general bonhomie in the capital is fun, fraternal, and full of festive cheer.

Some of those overwintering here for the first time may be a little bowled over by the scale of the city's Xmas festivities. Walking around any major Chinese city 20 years ago you'd have been hard pressed to spot a single Santa cut-out. Visit those same cities today, however, and the air of celebration comes close to that of New York or London. The Avenue of Eternal Peace in Beijing is decked out with glitzy displays, while many Chinese people now decorate their homes with Christmas trees, cook and eat special food, and spend time with family and friends.

The recent Xmas frenzy has not restricted itself to Chinese big cities either, with Santas popping up like mushrooms in shopping malls and town centers all over the country, and Rudolph upgraded to a gaggle of attractive young Chinese females handing out goodies from a bulging sack. Carols may sometimes take a backseat to more contemporary tunes, but unless you're a die-hard fan of "Silent Night" or "Auld Lang Syne" the loss is pretty painless (carol fans can typically find a performance or two at Beijing's international schools).

If you're someone who needs their fill of traditional Xmas fare then most of Beijing's large international hotels, and an increasing number of Western restaurants, now host Christmas Eve and Christmas Day buffets serving all the usual favorites - turkey, stuffing, roast vegetables, gravy, mince pies, brandy butter, and even Brussels sprouts for that small minority that actually like eating them. Depending on price and location these events can get booked out months in advance, so early reservations are a good idea.

For a more intimate, homely Christmas celebration it's easy to pick up a turkey in Carrefour, Jenny Lou's, or some of the other specialist supermarkets dotting the embassy districts. Larger hotel chains with bakeries and delis also offer traditional Christmas food. Those that have red wine of a less desirable vintage clogging up the rack may be tempted to brew up a batch of gluwein, which is a great beverage for heating the inner self and rapidly inducing intoxication. Rounding off the evening with fireworks is always entertaining, and good preparation for Spring Festival.

Other Western Christmas traditions are becoming more popular in Beijing . Some clued-up children hang up muslin stockings in the hope that Dun Che Lao Ren, the Chinese version of Santa Claus, will have enough energy after his duties at the mall to evade compound security guards and drop off a stash of presents. Shops such as Jenny Lou's stock some capacious stockings, as well as a tasteful range of Christmas decorations.

While Beijing 's Christian minority in China has always observed Christmas etiquette, celebrating the big day by decorating Christmas trees with paper chains, flowers and lanterns, attendance at Christmas Eve mass is now becoming de rigueur for Beijing's non-believers too. Last year revelers flocked to hear Christmas Eve Mass at St. Joseph 's Cathedral ("Dong Tang") in Wangfujing, packing out the church and paved area outside.

All of Beijing churches traditionally offer Christmas services, with St. Joseph's and the Northern Church ("Beitang" or Xishiku Catholic Church) the most popular. There is usually a mass held in the early evening on Christmas Eve, followed by a ticket-only mass around midnight, and then regular masses on Christmas morning.

Another great Christmas experience for families and couples can be found at the Beijing Playhouse, located at Block 8, close to Chaoyang Park's west gate. Repeating last year's success, the Playhouse's production of the holiday classic "A Christmas Carol" will hit the Beijing stage on December 5th , running through to December 28th . Performed in English with Chinese subtitles, shows are scheduled for Friday and Saturday evenings at 7.30 pm, and Sunday matinees at 2 pm.

Whether or not your Beijing Christmas proves better or worse than in years gone by, luckily we still have the best Chinese holiday to look forward to, which everyone knows is Spring Festival. Firecrackers galore, temple fairs, lantern parades and jiaozi with the in-laws, Chinese New Year truly is a "Golden" Week. Just think of Christmas as a warm-up.

Xmas recipes a la Beijing

Beijing Roast Turkey

Looking to spice up your Christmas dinner turkey? Check out this recipe which serves 4 to 6 people.

Ingredients

1 10-12 pound turkey
6 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 teaspoons five-spice powder
2 cloves garlic, pressed
12 chopped scallions
several sprigs cilantro

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Combine the first 5 ingredients and rub over turkey to coat. Pour remaining sauce into the cavity. Add scallions and cilantro. Place the turkey in a roasting pan. Roast 20 minutes per pound, until a meat thermometer registers 180 degrees. Let stand 15 minutes before carving.

Beijing Gluwein (serves 12-15)

Ingredients

2 bottles dry red wine

1 bottle brandy (optional)
6 tablespoons sugar (add more to taste)
6 sticks cinnamon
12 whole cloves
1/8 teaspoon allspice
2 oranges
1 lemon

Preparation

Pour red wine (and brandy) into a large saucepan and begin gentle heating. As it begins to warm, add sugar, cloves and allspice, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Add brandy. Heat thoroughly but do not allow to boil. Add thinly sliced lemon, one orange, and cinnamon, and allow mixture to steep for about 1 hour over a low heat. Add more sugar during this time if desired, but do it slowly and ensure it dissolves. Serve hot and garnish with orange slices. Drink slowly!

View more images of China by Daniel Allen

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