Beijing Attractions: Panjiayuan Flea Market

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Panjiayuan Flea Market

Alison Aitken

To flea or not to flea, that was the question. However within a few minutes of entering the Panjiayuan market, it quickly became clear that this was going to be a great place to spend a few weekend hours browsing, musing and haggling.

Covering over 48,000 square metres and home to hundreds of different stalls spilling out into a tree-lined courtyard area, the market has a bustling yet relaxed atmosphere.

Panjiayuan market has been running for many years, and some say it was the place where wealthy families who had fallen upon hard times came under the cover of darkness in order to exchange their belongings for a few Yuan. If this was the case, then times certainly seem to have changed, and it is with rosy cheeked enthusiasm that traders now ply their multitudinous wares. While some mainly structural modernization of the market took place in the early 1990's, it retains bundles of character (and characters) whilst providing a clean and pleasant environment for the bargain-hunting masses.

The market consists of two main parts: an antique section which is open all week long; and the arts and craft market which opens on weekends - and it is then that the place really comes to life! In the early hours of Saturday morning the contents of the stalls of the flea market are unloaded from boxes, bags and containers and somehow haphazardly arranged into beguiling bundles of eclectic intrigue.

Stacks of brightly coloured fabrics, streamers of hand embroidered silk, carpets, beads, ceramics, and tarnished “antiques” jostle for position, while stallholders cradle steaming bowls of noodles and green tea, gently coaxing passing shoppers to linger over their stalls. A far cry from the at times claustrophobic Beijing Silk Market, the charmingly chaotic Panjiayuan offers fresh air and a fresh perspective on bargain hunting and window shopping alike.

Traders (many of whom wear traditional dress) come from over twenty provinces around China to market their wares here, and this is reflected in the huge variety of specialty arts and crafts that appears on sale. Regional specialties such as blue and white Batik from Yunnan and carpets from Tibet feature alongside pretty silk lanterns, kitschy alarm clocks and dusty memorabilia from the Cultural Revolution.

Stallholders are friendly, and bargaining is relaxed. Whilst many of the traders can speak a little English, this is a great place to try out any Mandarin you may have picked up. It is however wise to shop around - many of the stalls sell remarkably similar "unique" items, and the starting price can vary wildly! Whilst genuine antiques may be hard to come by, an open mind and a sense of fun should see you leaving the market with a smile on your face, and some unexpected souvenirs to hand.

Panjiayuan market is easily reached from the centre of Beijing and can be found on Panjiayuan Lu on the South East corner of the third ring road, to the East of Longfan Park. The easiest way to reach the market is to take a taxi, or to catch the number 28 bus to Panjiayuan bridge from just outside Guomao subway station (exit C). Buses leave regularly and the ride (6 stops) takes around 10-15 minutes. At only 1 Yuan per person, the bus will definitely be your first bargain of the day! If, after you leave the market, you are able to resist the convenience of hopping into a taxi with your probably bulging bags, the same bus heads back towards Guomao from the other side of the bridge.

Alternately, a visit to Panjiayuan is easily combined with a trip to the Temple of Heaven - this makes for a really nice day out. After enjoying the sights and sounds of the Temple of Heaven and the surrounding park, simply cross Tiantan Donglu at the East gate entrance and catch a number 36 bus on Tiyuguan Lu.

This 15 minute bus ride (7 stops) will take you to within a two minute stroll of the market. It may be advisable to stave off the distractions of a rumbling stomach by making a pre-market lunch stop at one of the many coffee houses outside the East gate of the Temple of Heaven, or there are a number of reasonably priced local restaurants close to where the number 36 bus stops outside the market. For those keen to get down to business, there are a couple of cafes within the market, one of which serves up Western fare.

The entrance to the market itself is easily identified by the haphazard rows of bicycle carts and rickshaws lining the pavement outside. The absence of tour buses is merciful.

Text + images by Alison Aitken

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